Green Amigurumi Figure on a Swim Ring — finished crochet project photo1/3

Green Amigurumi Figure on a Swim Ring

Original design by @孟孟

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An amigurumi of a grumpy cartoon fish lounging on a striped swim ring, worked in fine cotton on a small hook. The body, arms, legs, trousers, face pieces and the eight-block swim ring are all worked separately and assembled.

Difficulty
Intermediate
Hook
2.0mm
Yarn
4-ply combed cotton
Time
5-10 hours

Materials

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Stitches used: MR, ch, sc, hdc, dc, tr, inc, dec, BLO, FLO, sl st

Green Amigurumi Figure on a Swim Ring — Body, Arms and Legs

Body (2.0 mm hook, 4-ply combed cotton, start at the bottom)
In teal:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: *sc, inc*, x6 (18)
Rnd 4: *sc, inc, sc*, x6 (24)
Rnd 5: *3 sc, inc*, x6 (30)
Rnd 6: *2 sc, inc, 2 sc*, x6 (36)
Rnds 7-12: 36 sc each round (36)
Change to light green at Rnd 13:
Rnd 13: 36 sc in back loops only (36)
Rnds 14-31: 36 sc each round (36)
Rnd 32: *2 sc, dec, 2 sc*, x6 (30)
Rnd 33: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 34: *3 sc, dec*, x6 (24)
Rnd 35: *sc, dec, sc*, x6 (18)
Rnd 36: *sc, dec*, x6 (12)
Rnd 37: 6 dec (6). Fasten off.
Shirt hem: go back to Rnd 13 and work 36 sc in the front loops only in teal.

Arms (make 2): Rnds 1-14, 6 sc per round
Legs (make 2): Rnds 1-15, 6 sc per round
Trouser legs (make 2)
Rnd 1: Ch 8, join into a ring
Rnd 2: 8 sc (8)
Rnd 3: *sc, inc*, x4 (12)
Rnd 4: 12 sc (12)

Notes

2.0 mm hook with 4-ply combed cotton. Working Rnd 13 in back loops only and later going back into the front loops creates the shirt hem ridge. The narrow 6-st arms and legs are fiddly but keep the character's proportions.

Green Amigurumi Figure on a Swim Ring — Face, Fins and Ring

Eye whites (white yarn)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)

Eyelids (split the 4-ply down to 2-ply and use a 1.8 mm hook)
Row 1: MR, 5 sc, do not join, turn and work flat
Row 2: inc, 3 sc, inc (7)
Row 3: inc, 5 sc, inc (9)
Row 4: Work a row of sc back along the edge just made

Lips: Ch 28 and join into a ring (adjust the stitch count to suit your tension and the length you want)

Fin: Ch 22; starting in the 2nd ch from hook work 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, (tr, ch 3), sc, hdc, dc, (tr, ch 3), sc, hdc, dc, (tr, ch 3), then sc to the end.

Swim ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: *sc, inc*, x6 (18)
Rnd 4: 18 sc in back loops only (18), then continue in sc.
Work 10 rounds per colour block, changing white, red, white, red for 8 blocks in total, then join the two ends.

Tips
1. Stuff a little at a time as you go so the ring stays even.
2. Work only 8 rounds for the first red block and add 2 extra red rounds after the last white block, so the join is almost invisible.

Notes

Eyelids use split 2-ply yarn and a 1.8 mm hook so they sit flat on the eye. The swim ring is one long tube of 8 alternating colour blocks joined end to end.

Frequently asked questions

How is the shirt hem made?

Round 13 of the body is worked in back loops only in the new colour. Once the body is finished you return to the free front loops of that round and work 36 sc in the original colour, which forms the raised hem.

Why are the eyelids worked with split yarn?

The 4-ply is split down to 2-ply and worked with a 1.8 mm hook so the lids stay thin and lie flat against the eyeball instead of bulking up the face.

How do I keep the swim ring even?

Stuff it a little at a time as you work rather than all at the end, and work 10 rounds per colour block so the eight blocks come out the same length.

Any tip for joining the swim ring ends?

Work only 8 rounds for the first red block and add 2 extra red rounds after the final white block. The join then falls in the middle of a colour block and is almost invisible.

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